Sunday, February 27, 2011

Château Tanunda's Dry Riesling: Australia's Well-Kept Secret

Quick! I say Australian wine, you say... Shiraz, right? (ok, or maybe Yellow Tail, but after that you'd say Shiraz, I bet).

In my experience, most people associate the wines from down under with fruity, boldly flavored red wines.


So what if I told you that in a pocket of the generally hot, drought-ridden Australian continent there are a few cool areas that can grow a grape that no one would ever expect to see here?


What if that grape was Riesling and what if the style was the complete opposite of the sweet stuff you
may eschew?

If you think you know what Riesling tastes like and you've never had a dry Riesling, you're going to need to re-evaluate...and get yourself an Australian Riesling to see a dimension of this grape that you won't believe until you try it.


And...if you think I'
m crazy, I'll admit that there's a little cognitive dissonance regarding Riesling, which is associated with cool places like Germany and Austria, growing in burning hot Australia, but it actually makes sense when you consider that immigrants from all over the world always bring their traditions and stuff with them to the place they settle. So it shouldn't be a surprise that when, in 1842, German settlers arrived in the Barossa Valley, fleeing religious persecution in their homeland, they brought with them the grape they knew best: Riesling.

Now, mind you, early versions sucked ass and were made into brandy because the grapes were planted in areas more suited for vines that like heat -- like Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon -- but the Germans and their Australian ancestors kept growing Riesling despite these nasty results (Germans are stubborn -- M.C. Ice is part German, so I speak from a place of knowledge). They persisted over the years even though Riesling is a very demanding vine that's easily rotted and needs to grow in cool climates where it can ripen slowly to build flavor and acid -- quite the opposite of the land available in the much of the warm Barossa Valley.


This attempt at growing Riesling rather unsuccessfully we
nt on for a long, long time. But, after lots of experimentation and a refusal to give up on this aromatic, high acid, distinctive grape, the German-Aussie descendants, finally did it in the 80s and 90s when they planted the grape in cool micro-climates in the area. And they followed up the success with a stupendous decision to let the grape speak for itself by allowing it to get ripe and develop fruit flavors but NOT to leave sugar in the wine. The style that results is a dry, flavorful, citrusy wine with pure, crisp flavors, acidity, minerality, and massive aromas like lemon, lime, apricot, peach, and nectarine.

In cool pockets of the Barossa Valley, and especially in the nearby, high elevation Clare and Eden Valleys with long, cool autumns, Riesling is delicate yet bold, flavorful, and aromatic yet subtle, and one of the best matches with lighter or spicy food that I've had the pleasure of tasting.


I had the honor of presenting to the Southeast Regional Conference of the American Culinary Federation a little over a week ago, and the folks at Château Tanunda from the Barossa Valley were kind enough to donate their Riesling for the event (I had requested a dry Riesling as an example of a new trend in wine -- Riesling is the fastest growing white according to Nielsen, a ratings group). I also had discussed the grape in podcast #7 and when I tried this particular wine, I thought so highly of it, that I wanted to review this one to give a solid example of what I was talking about when I described a bone dry Riesling.

This is a wonderful wine made with 40% estate grown, old-vines Riesling, but I have to admit that I haven't yet experienced a bad Australian Riesling, so if you can't find this in your wine shop go for another brand and I don't think you'll be disappointed.


The Wine: Château Tanunda Grand Barossa Riesling
Where It's From: Barossa Valley, South Australia
The Grapes: 100% Riesling
Vintage:
2009
Price:
$15


Color:
An unoaked, no-sugar wine with lots of acid, grown in a cool climate is usually a super pale yellow color with a touch of green. Yup.

Smell:
This could be a super-turn off to you or could be really great, but the first smell wafting out of this glass was gasoline/petrol. It's a characteristic that is typical in Riesling, but that you only get if it's grown in a cool enough climate. I love it and was so happy to smell it on this wine, especially since it was backed up with unbelievable fruit, flower, and nut aromas too. The wine smelled like fresh squeezed lime, dried peaches and apricots, gardenias, and like the almond paste they put inside an almond-filled croissant! It smelled a little like honey too. There was this excellent, very distinct steel/metal smell -- the wine was so aromatic and complex. I could sniff it all day long.

Taste:
There were a few surprises offered up in the taste. Yeah, it tasted like the lime I smelled, but there was almost a sensation of green apple Jolly Rancher, and, strangely, the taste of raspberries (not really common in a white, I gotta say). Once inside my mouth and closer to my olfactory bulb (remember, your tongue doesn't "taste" things like fruit or flowers, it's your sense of smell that picks up on that once the stuff is inside your mouth, warmed, and closer to the bulb) it was a bit like pine or an evergreen forest. There was a great nectar-like essence to the wine even though it was BONE dry and had ridiculously high acid that had my mouth watering for ages after I swallowed it. It was such a fresh, light wine -- nothing like the cloying, sweeter versions of Riesling that I think most people associate with the grape.


Food
Pairings: Ok, here's a strange one. We had it with farro, an Italian grain that is nutty and starchy and pretty delicious. The texture and taste of the grain and with the herbed goat cheese that we had on top combined so well with the citrusy acid of the Château Tanunda and everything tasted fruity, creamy, and herbal. I know it's an odd pairing because farro is a weird grain, but I would recommend pairing with something nut-encrusted (white fish) or with a grain or side that's a bit nutty to experience the yumminess of this combo. M.C. Ice could not get over how great this pairing was and it did my heart good to see his skinny butt going in for seconds just so he could have the farro/Aussie Riesling match.

Drink or Down the Sink?: Drink...all day long. I know Australian wine isn't winning any popularity contests these days, but you've got to buck the trend and try Château Tanunda or another Riesling from the Clare Valley or Eden Valley to experience this grape and wine in all its refinement, dryness, and perfection in pairing with food! Yum!

Please leave a comment and let me know what you think!!
Readmore »»

Saturday, February 26, 2011

Perrin Nature but how natural is it?


I was going to flag up what struck me as a bit of a bargain in the Co-op at the moment which is selling the Perrin Nature Côtes du Rhône for £6.99. That not only makes it £2 cheaper than their normal retail price of £8.99 but a full £4.50 cheaper than it costs in Oddbins (Unless you buy six bottles in which case you get a 20% discount but even then it's more expensive than the Co-op.) Given that it's organic and comes from the 2009 vintage you'd think you were onto a winner.

Hmmmm - I'm not so sure. It's curious. A big generous wine, certainly (14.5%), but oddly one dimensional. A bit flat and lacking in acidity. I thought it might be because it's 95% grenache which could make it a little unbalanced but I suspect the answer lies in the 'intriguing wine making process' to which the Oddbins website refers here.

Apparently the Perrins flash heat the grapes to 80°C for 30 seconds then cool them down to 20°C to 'extract maximum colour and aroma compounds'. It also apparently destroys bacteria and early oxidation. Sounds to me remarkably like pasteurisation which would account for its blandness.

Interestingly the back label suggests you should serve the wine at 15°C, presumably to zip it up a bit.

It confirms a nagging feeling I've had for a while that organic on a label is not enough. OK the process doesn't involve chemicals but it's not really in the spirit of organic winemaking is it? I just don't think you can regard this as a natural wine. Readmore »»

Friday, February 25, 2011

Wine For Normal People Radio: Episode 008 Wine Gadgets & Glasses -- The Good, The Bad, & The Ugly

Fresh from the airwaves...it's Episode 008 -- Wine Gadgets & Glasses: The Good, The Bad, & The Ugly.

Here's the link: PODCAST

We got this week's show idea from listener, Scott Harrah. Thanks for the suggestion!

After covering some great emails, blog comments, and posts on the Facebook page we talked about the latest out of Canada. Scientists there claim to have discovered a strain of yeast that would prevent Red Wine Headaches or "RWH" syndrome as it's commonly called. I still say it's inconclusive but you can decide...
  • Here's a link to the Decanter Article that we talked about.
  • ...and another to an older Wall Street Journal Article. Sadly, even though it's old not much has changed since it was written. If anyone has about $60K to pour into a research study on the topic, I bet UC Davis would be happy to receive it!

After news, we hopped into the main topic. We reviewed...
  • Wine Glasses - White, Red, and Sparkling (I say simplicity is best)
  • Aerators & Decanters -- find out why I'm a hater on the aerator and a decanter lover
  • Preservers -- I'm not a gadget girl but thumbs up on this
  • Openers (I'm so opinionated...listen to learn more)
  • Chillers - In case you don't have a fridge in your home
  • Wine Stain Remover - an absolute must-have!
I mentioned the article on stemware/Riedel for which I was interviewed on the site IntoWine. If you're interested, check it out: ARTICLE

Our grape of the week is one of Rick's favorites: Albariño (or Alvarinho in Portugal). A tasty, unique, and delicious Spanish white!

To listen, download the podcast from the iTunes store (and if you like it and can please add a comment or rate it so we can make sure to stay on the radar in "New & Noteworthy," which helps other folks find us easily that would be great!), click the link above, or use the player below! Thanks for listening!


Addendum: Listener Josh (comment below) brought up the fact that we mentioned a ton of brands in this show...something we don't usually do! He was in his car listening and said it was hard to keep track of all the brand names and suggested we put links to everything we mentioned here... your wish is my command : )

Here are the links to the brands we mentioned:

Glassware:
Riedel: http://www.riedel.com/
Spiegelau: http://www.spiegelau.com/home/

Aerators:
Vinturi: http://vinturi.com/
Wine Soiree:
www.winesoiree.com

Preserver:
Vacuvin: http://www.vacuvin.com/Vacuum_Wine_Saver_286_270_267.html

Opener:
Rabbit: http://www.metrokane.com/site_files/mk_rabbit.aspx

Chiller:
Waring Pro: http://www.waringproducts.com/ret/catalog/product.php?product_id=59&cat_id=5

Wine Stain Remover:
Wine Away: http://www.wineaway.com/



Readmore »»

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Wine For Normal People Radio: Episode 007 Old World v. New World Wines -- What's the Difference?

Have been laid up for the last few days with a disastrous cold -- sorry not to post this sooner!

But here it is:
Episode 007 Old World vs New World Wines - What’s the difference?

This week we gave some shout outs to blog, Twitter, and Facebook friends (and asked you to post your ideas to the Facebook page or in the comments below if you want!). The news was about Younger wine drinkers' preferences and how they influence winemaking -- specifically alcohol content. Here's the link to the article that we discussed: Click Here.

Our main topic was Old World versus New World -- what each means from a geographic and stylistic perspective. We broke down weather, terroir, and what you can expect when you buy a wine from Europe vs. everywhere else (more or less!).

Grape of the week is one of my favorites, and one that gets a super bad rap because most people think it's sweet and cloying: Riesling. I beg you to take another look, because it's so darn food friendly and the dry versions are delicious!

If you're on the fence about listening, this is a big episode. I break out my TRUE heritage and you'll hear me in rare form, speaking in my Long Island accent...not to be missed, as it will provide endless entertainment when you meet me in person someday!!!

To listen, download it from the iTunes store, click the link above, or use the player below! Thanks for listening!
Readmore »»

Would you use GM wine yeast?

A question for the winemakers who follow this blog. Would you use a GM wine yeast?

There's a report today on decanter.com that the Canadian authorities have approved the use of a yeast called ML101 that is said to prevent headaches by producing fewer bioamines

It also enables the malolactic fermentation to take place at the same time as the alcoholic fermentation which is said to reduce the risk of wine spoilage*

Apparently the yeast has already been approved for use in the US and South Africa since 2006 so it's not new so I wonder how many other genetically modified yeasts there are around?

And surely winemakers could help to prevent headaches by reducing the amount of sulphur they use?

Just askin'.

* and somewhat alarmingly, according to this longer piece in The Vancouver Sun, the risk of 'toxic chemicals' forming as a result of adding malolactic bacteria. Is that genuinely a risk?

** and while on the subject of additives Jamie Goode has just uploaded this very interesting post on grape concentrate and Mega Purple Readmore »»

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Tour de Belfort 2009, Vin de Pays du Lot


The only downside to having a national newspaper column is that you get a lot of wine sent to you. Now most of you might think that would be a huge plus and I can obviously see the advantage. But they do take over your life (our hall looks like a warehouse) and it is sometimes hard to keep up with the tasting and plantive emails from producers who ask if you've tried their wine yet.

Anyway I've finally got round (after several emails) to tasting this Tour de Belfort from a Quercy-based estate which sells direct and very enjoyable it is too. Or at least the red - a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Merlot - is. The white - a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Semillon is nothing like as good.

The estate is in conversion - this is what they say on their site:

"We have practiced organic methods since the beginning to produce a wine that is as natural as possible. We do not use any herbicides, pesticides or chemical fertilizers. We started the Ecocert certification program in 2009 which will give us the organic certification after 3 years of survey, so in a year we will be able to add the certified organic logo on our labels." They also say they don't use any chemical additives in the winery and have low sulphite levels.

The vineyard is also part of a Natura 2000 European (EEC) protected territory "a program designed to protect habitats, species and biodiversity across Europe"

Anyway it's a delicious, soft, fruity, highly drinkable red that anyone would like to have in their cellar. My only quibble is that at £10 a bottle it's a pound or so too pricey. I know that includes the cost of transport from France but they are selling it direct. I'd be happier if it was £8-£9, if you bought a case of 12 at any rate. Readmore »»

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Wine Blogs and Wine on the Internet: A Matter of Trust

I've been reading a lot of stuff lately that has panned the hell out of wine bloggers, wine mobile applications, and newer wine critics...and although I find some of it comical, it's been bugging me.

The ba
sic argument in every study, commentary, and editorial is that anyone who is not already established in the wine writing game or isn't a source you know already is essentially full of s*&t. Each article, blogger, periodical, and Op-Ed'er is either saying that you don't trust anything that bloggers say (in the data-based studies) or that you shouldn't. The same goes for mobile wine applications, resource sites, and anything else that isn't Spectator, Enthusiast, Food & Wine, The New York Times, Decanter, The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker), etc.

So, according to these articles, YOU essentially are saying that all forms of new information and new media are worthless and may as well not exist except if written by the same people who write for magazines and papers that existed before the 1990s. YOU eschew "new entrants" into the field and don't trust or like anyone who hasn't earned their stripes at a major publication first.
Better stop reading this blog now ...

But if you decided to read on...I'll say this. This story is a retread of the story of the entrenched, old media industries -- music labels and newspapers especially come to mind. Recall that the music labels shut down Napster rather than trying to harness its networking powers (for now, we'll leave it alone that the app was kind of stealing music). Then the industry boycotted iTunes because fat cat execs would have rather had you buy the whole crap album than just buy an individual song you may like. It's the same story: Old doesn't like the new and they don't want to share their audience or accept that things may be changing.

I'll concede that many wine blogs are written by folks without a lot of wine knowledge and that I'm personally a fan of a very few. I don't think this is a really radical view. To quote a fellow Long Islander (I'm a native, although I don't live there anymore) with everything you read or listen to or watch on a regular basis ..."It's a matter of trust."

But we don't need whining journalists to tell us to question media and our trust level of content providers. Trust is earned over time. D
oesn't this go for everything in your life? Here are three examples:
1. You hear from a friend that a hairstylist is really great, so you go to the salon because you
trust your friend. The stylist FUBARs your hair and then you neither trust the stylist, nor the friend.
2. You call a painter whose name you got off the Internet because you need a room painted desperately and the price is right. He turns out to be awesome. You use him again and you recommend him to everyone you know.

3. You read a review of a wine on a wine blog and it seems like something you would like. You buy it based on that recommendation. It rocks your world. You keep reading the blog and taking the recommendations.

Why is it that wine "authorities" think that we are all a bunch of morons and lemmings? Yes, there are 3,000 wine blogs out there. Not all of them will continue, and not all of them are written by people who know much about wine. But we know this. We can see it right away. And it's our choice to decide if we'll keep reading them for amusement or to find some other source of information.

I find it interesting that the data in one of the studies showed "definitively" that people don't trust wine bloggers, but then
as a fellow wine blogger, The Wine Crumudgeon, pointed out, those who actually know what a blog is (that was part of the problem -- they didn't know what a blog was), trust them about as much as they trust the people at their wine shop. The empirical study implies that people trust wine shops a lot more than blogs -- proving the mantra I learned in business school -- there are lies, damn lies, and statistics.

Another
fascinating article on "death to bloggers" comes from a writer for the Connoisseurs' Guide To California Wine, whose thinly veiled hatred for new bloggers seems to come from a fear that he and his cronies may be undermined by other, more interesting people on the horizon. He hopes to hold on to his salary (and his $90/year subscription fee) by stripping bloggers of their credibility and insinuating that the old guard is the only game that will survive (*Please see the comments below where a dialog between the author and I played out. He clarifies his position a bit).

I'm sure the author of that article would lump me in with the amateurs, but I like to think that because I am a Certified Sommelier, Certified Specialist of Wine, have done my time on the business side of the wine industry working in California for a large winery, and I have a wine education business in which I do classes for people constantly, that my stuff comes from a place of experience, expertise, and understanding about what people want to know about a very broad, difficult subject. But that's not up to me to decide. It's up to you to choose to trust me and many of the other bloggers out there or not.


Regardless, I think we should all resist the urge to cast a death knell to a new medium that gives people access to more information and gives them a chance to make decisions about who they believe in. The number of people who write blogs hurts no one, but the rise of successful ones eats into the scared old guard, which is why they keep predicting the end of it all (wishful thinking). I say, bring it on. In the end it's up to all of us to choose what we like and what we don't. The best will rise to the top, the less good won't garner an audience.

In this situation, let's use Billy Joel's wise words: "It's a matter of trust..." A matter which is up to you, not to someone else's opinion on wine bloggers, wine applications, and the future of wine on the Internet.
Readmore »»

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

What’s orange wine?


Ever since I discovered that Claude Bosi of Hibiscus had an orange wine list I’ve been dying to dip into it - and yesterday I got the chance at lunch with Isabelle Legeron the restaurant's wine consultant (a feast you can read about here)

Somewhat embarrassingly I discover that it’s been all the rage in the states for a couple of years as this unusually succinct and well-informed entry and footnotes in Wikipedia indicate.

Top US wine writers Jon Bonné of the San Francisco Chronicle and Eric Asimov of the New York Times have both written great pieces on it which I’d urge you to read if you want to understand it better but to put it in a nutshell orange wine is a white wine made with long skin maceration which leaches out the colour of the grape skins and results in a salmon- or orange-coloured wine. It’s nothing new. The Georgians have been making orange wine for centuries.

The one I tried was Josko Gravner’s Ribolla 2002 (top right) from Venezia Giula. The Italians seem to be particularly into orange wine and Gravner who originally comes from neighbouring Slovenia is one of their high priests.


To tell the truth although I found it interesting I wasn’t totally blown away - it was attractive with some appealing quince fruit and an intriguing touch of nuttiness but paled in comparison with the amazing Les Jardins d’Esmeraldins, Genèse 2001 (top left) a simply stunning dry Chenin which the producer apparently keeps in oak for 5-6 years. 2001 is the current release!

Confusingly it is also orange which goes to show there’s orange and orange . . .


. . . and orange if you want to create your own with the clever iPhone app Colorsplash (taken at Brawn).

* It makes me feel slightly better that the great Jancis Robinson hasn’t currently got orange wine in her Oxford Companion. Not just me then. Readmore »»

Monday, February 14, 2011

Come d'Incanto 2009, Cantine Carpentiere


I'm taking a bit of a punt including this in the blog as I don't know if it's natural. The winelist at the Opera Tavern, a new wine bar where I tasted it the other day, said it was 'organic' and 'natural style' but it doesn't yet have its wine list up and I can't find any reference to how it's made on the producer's website or elsewhere on the net.

It tasted natural though. I can imagine some of you reading this saying 'huh - what does she mean by that?' Well it had a really distinctive quince fruit flavour - quite rich, spicy and earthy, no obvious commercial yeasts I'd have said or artificial-tasting acidity.

It's made down in Puglia from a dark-skinned grape called Uva di Troia so the wine has that slight pink-tinged colour you sometimes get in a blanc de noirs.

It also has the zany sort of label that natural winemakers like to put on their bottles.

Anyway I enjoyed it and it went very well with a selection of tapas including some Gorgonzola and date croquetas.

If you know more about it do tell me. Readmore »»

Last Minute Wine Gifts For Valentine's Day...

Ok, it's Valentine's Day.

And like everyone else in America (except for you REALLY slick people), you're scrambling to put something together for your spouse/love/like/crush.

I'm not big into the "Hallmark" holidays, as I like to call them, but I do like Valentine's Day because it's a great opportunity to take some time out of your crazy schedule to show someone that you care.


If there's a wine-lover in your life, I'm going to offer you three suggestions for wines to either give as a gift or have with dinner (which really, in my opinion, should be enough of a gift, but then again I'm low maintenance in the gift arena, much to M.C. Ice's delight).


The bonus of giving wine: it's an awesome last minute gift. If you've got a good wine shop around, you should be able to find any of these great wines easily and in a variety of prices (as an FYI -- the labels listed below are for illustration purposes only, so you can see what to look for. With the exception of the Darioush, I haven't reviewed any of these wines).


A great white option: Viognier
(Vee-ohn-YAY)

I'm kind of embarrassed that I haven't reviewed one of these on the blog because they are so luscious and delicious, but c'est la vie (the grape is native to the Northern Rhone, so I feel the gratuitous use of this cheesy phrase is warranted). This is a good way to ingratiate yourself to a white wine lover.

Why this wine? Although I love wines that are like a bowl of acid and minerals, I think that may send the wrong message on Valentine's Day. An austere wine may make the recipient feel like you're calling him/her an icy, cold, and acetic person. Everyone reads into stuff, so spare yourself.

For Valentine's Day something floral, fruity, and sensual are much more appropriate. Viogner fits the bill -- it tends to be full-bodied, rich with peach, apricot and honeysuckle flavor, and like liquid silk in your mouth. It's a fragrant, happy, forthcoming wine in flavor and texture and your sweetie will definitely appreciate the idea that a wine with this exuberant a profile reminds you of them.


If you're going out to dinner or cooking dinner
, there is no better match for any cheese (except bleu) than Viognier. It also pairs well with salads, appetizer courses, and pasta with cream sauces. It's so aromatic and delicious, that it's a great wine for pre-dinner imbibing too!
Price Ranges: Options range from a California or Australian version for around $10 to the really expensive stuff for $90 from Condrieu, at the far north of the Northern Rhone Valley in France.


BTW--My advice for this wine and the suggestions that follow would be to pick a price point commensurate with your pocketbook, AND with the seriousness of the relationship...don't go overboard for a new love, friends. But this is not a romance column, so let's get to pick #2...
______________________________________________________________
Options within an Option: Valpolicella


Italian is such a romantic language, that I think just giving something from this country of the language of passion and love will score you major points. Valpolicella (val-pole-ahh-CHELL-ah) or, if you want to spend the coin, Amarone (am-a-RHONE-eh) are two great picks.

Why this wine?
There are so many styles and flavors depending on the type you get, that this seemingly simple wine can have layers of intrigue...a very romantic concept, no? Made of a blend of Corvina, Molinara, and Rondinella grapes native to the Veneto (near Venice) region, these are multi-faceted wines, to say the least. Here are your options:


Valpolicella Classico: If you want to keep things light, here's the way to go. This is a pretty simple wine but full of red berry and floral aromas. It tastes very fruity with just a hint of acidity for balance -- it's not such a serious wine, but it's a pretty fun one.
Food:
If you don't like white wines this can be a good substitute -- it's great for vegetarian dishes, especially those with an Italian influence.
Price: Generally below $18

Valpolicella Classico Superiore: A much more serious wine than the Classico, this one may have done some time in oak barrels or been through the Ripasso method, where the wine is passed over skins and seeds from dried grapes to give it some extra tannins and mature flavors. If it's been in oak it has mouth-drying tannins and a healthy dose of vanilla and wood flavors added to the fruitiness of the grapes. If it's done Ripasso style, expect raisined flavors, a slight bitterness from the skins and seeds, and a fuller, more complex variety of things going on in the glass.
Food: This wine is a big step up from the one above (consider your messaging, and don't give it to the person you're breaking up with tomorrow!). Mushrooms, hearty meats, and stews would be a good match.
Price:
From about $14 - $95 depending on quality level.


Amarone:
You better be in love to give this version. This wine is made from grapes that have been set aside in attic rafters until late in the fall to dry and concentrate their sugars and soften their acids. It's then fermented dry (no sugar is left in the wine) and the result is a very intense aroma and flavor. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, earth, and raisin are common flavors. The word Amarone, comes from "amaro" or bitter, so expect a tinge of that in the wine too...just like love, it's a little bittersweet (although it's not sweet, just fruity but go with me on the cliche please). It's high in alcohol too -- usually upwards of 14% so drink lots of water and grab a taxi if you're having this out!
Food:
I always like to pair wines from a region with cuisine from that region, so think Northern Italian fare -- pork and salami are popular in the area, so think along the "salty meat" lines for pairing.

Price:
These wines START at around $60, hence the comment at the beginning of the description...
______________________________________________________________

A "my heart beats for you red": Napa Cabernet Sauvignon

Why this wine?
Well it's the King of red wine and it's the wine with the most prominent and
revealing flavors. This wine doesn't hold much back, so if you're trying to make a proclamation of love, here's a great bet. Napa Cab works best because it's fruity, it's not very difficult to understand or appreciate, and it's got smells and flavors that are bold, powerful, and delicious. Blackberry, black currant, black cherry, tobacco, oak, vanilla, chocolate, and healthy tannins and acids make this choice a "heart-on-the-line" declaration of strong feeling.

If you're going out to dinner or cooking dinner, the food better be show-y or bold. Braised meats, game (venison, buffalo, etc), prime rib, earthy vegetable dishes (with mushrooms, eggplant), duck, and lamb can handle this big-ass wine. Lighter foods, anything with a sweet sauce, or "green flavored" things (asparagus, artichoke, herbal seasoning) will make the wine go over like a ton of bricks so caveat emptor.

Price:
All over the map...from $15 to $500! For good, solid choices expect to spend $35. I have a ton of producers listed on the blog from both Napa and Sonoma (if you want to save a little money, go for something from the Alexander Valley in Sonoma).


Whatever you do today or tonight, enjoy it and even if you don't have a hot date, make sure you spend some time with the ones you love...and that includes yourself!
Readmore »»

Friday, February 11, 2011

Wine For Normal People Radio: Episode 006 Top 10 Snobby Wine Terms (Defined)



You've heard them thrown around and thrown down, but do you really know what they mean? Who cares if you didn't before!? Rick of Hello Vino (the free wine app) and I define these puppies and gab about everything from the critic Robert Parker to my love of drinking dirt (ok, not really...)
  1. Dusty
  2. Minerality
  3. Gamey
  4. Tannic
  5. Acidic
  6. Dry (and the opposite: Sweet)
  7. Sweet
  8. Finish
  9. Bouquet
  10. Tight
The Grape of the Week: the big daddy of whites...Chardonnay. There's more to it then you think, and if you're an "ABC'er" (Anything But Chardonnay), I may convince you to take another look.

Here is the article that spurred the Robert Parker chat...although we neglected to dig into the actual news that he would no longer be reviewing California wines, which has been his sweet spot for a long, long time and shaped the way a lot of winemakers make their wines (i.e., for his palate so they can get great scores). ARTICLE

As a final request...we want topics from you. This isn't just a lame-ass one way podcast. Give us some ideas and we'll make it happen! Add a comment below and we'll do our best to pick up what you're puttin' down!

Download it from the iTunes store, click the link above, or use the player below! Thanks for listening! Readmore »»

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Claude Bosi launches natural wine list

It's amazing how hot under the collar people get about the subject of natural wine. My post in the Guardian today has attracted a huge number of comments as has my tweet flagging it up on Twitter.

What prompted it was the fact that two Michelin-starred chef Claude Bosi of Hibiscus had launched a wine list this week about 90% of which is composed of wines that could be referred to as natural. A significant step for a chef of that standing.

The list was put together by Isabelle Legeron a French Master of Wine, a firm believer in natural wines for personal reasons. Her father, a vigneron in the Cognac region died 10 years ago from lung cancer. He didn't smoke and Legeron attributes his death to the extensive spraying of vineyards in the area. A number of his fellow vignerons have died prematurely as did Yannick Chenet in the report I highlighted here.

This is an emotive subject. Winegrowers who take care with their crops but who are not organic or biodynamic feel understandably aggrieved that their wines could be regarded as 'unnatural'. Biodynamics to be honest does sound like a lot of mumbo-jumbo. If you come across a wine described as natural that tastes more like cider you may feel inclined to dismiss them in general. There are good and bad winemakers in the natural wine world just as there are in conventional winemaking.

But surely it can only be a good thing to raise the bar? For all producers to use fewer chemicals and less sulphur? If the natural wine movement means that more people respond to this demand all to the good. Readmore »»

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

A Delicious Surprise from a Small Corner of the Southern Rhone: Chateau Roustan from Costières de Nimes

The Rhône Valley is a big place. It's got a northern region where Syrah reigns supreme in reds and native (and lesser known) white grapes Viognier, Roussane, and Marsanne play lead roles and supporting roles to Syrah (yes, they blend white and red there). It has an even bigger southern region, which is super diverse and contains the famous Côtes-du-Rhône and Châteauneuf-du-Pape designations.

I'm going to do a primer on the Northern Rhône soon, and then I'll get to the Southern Rhône shortly after, but for this post, I'll concentrate on a lesser known area of the Southern Rhône from where I have previously never tried a wine. It's called Costières de Nimes (Coat-Tee-AIRE d'Neem) and its the most southern of the Rhône's vineyards. It's so far south and west that it used to be considered part of the Languedoc region, which is bigger and less prestigious than the Rhône.

This is an area with a long history of winemaking and a whole hell of a lot of pride.
Greeks were the first to cultivate vines in the Costières de Nimes. They alighted from the Mediterranean, found some native grapes, and in 500 BC started making the good stuff. Centuries later, Romans moved in, developed the area and it's rumored that Julius Ceasar's soldiers hung out here and imbibed in the fruit of the vine! In the 8th century, the real wine-lovers and perfectionists -- the monks from various sects (Benedictines, Cistercians, oh my!) started making fabulous wine.

Things clicked along for a while and then the world got a better taste of wines from this area when, in the 17th century, the Canal du Midi, a waterway connecting the Mediterranean with the Atlantic, opened international markets for this region's wine. The region was awarded its own designated, controlled origin (Appellation d'origine contrôlée) in 1986.

A funny thing about this region -- bullfighting seems to be a huge deal here. Although I didn't see anything in my research on Spanish influence, the web site for the wines of the region mentions two festival days involving bullfighting and a Pamplona-like bull chase...kind of not what I'd expect in Southern France, but what do I know?

I guess I better stick to the wine...

Like a lot of the Southern
Rhône there are 5 main grapes that drive the boat in these wines: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan, and Cinsault. Growing in a hot climate, which experiences some crazy storms, and the Mistral wind that comes from the North and can rip all the grapes off a vine in seconds, these grapes are each hearty and resilient and each add a special something to the blend. The soils tend to be stony and alluvial (deposits from rivers that look like stones and dirt) and can add a dusty mineral note to the wine.

Although similar in climate and in grapes used, wines from the Costières de Nimes are nothing like their richer neighbors in the east and northeast
Rhône Valley (Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Vacqueras, Gigondas). These wines tend to be lighter in style with less complexity -- more everyday wines than ageble ones! It's also worth noting that because of all the sucky weather in this area, vintage matters a lot. The wine below was a 2008, which was a harder vintage in the Rhône with wind, rain, and a wicked Mistral wind that lead to a smaller crop of just ok fruit -- very different from 2005 or 2007, for instance.

And now to the wine, which I was surprised to find and bought out of curiosity -- having never before seen a Costières de Nimes on a shelf!


The Wine: Chateau Roustan
Where It's From: Costières de Nimes, Rhône Valley, France
The Grapes: 50% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre, 20% Grenache
Vintage:
2008
Price:
$12.99


Color:
Syrah and Mourvedre are both pretty dark varieties so, not surprisingly, this wine was a rich ruby. It had a pretty watery rim, which I find typical of
Rhône Syrah (the Australian Shirazes are so much darker and hold color to the edge practically) and medium legs, meaning moderate alcohol (it was 13%, which is pretty standard).

Smell:
I really love when a wine tastes like it's from somewhere. There are so many wines out
there that are generic-tasting -- not so with this puppy. Flowers, blueberry, cherry, and spice all wrapped together in a wine that was like a bottle of expensive perfume. I smelled something like a pecan sandy cookie too. The best parts of this wine for me though -- the stinky, mineral, dust smells and then the new leather that anchored this wine to the land it grew in. Very interesting, in a good way.

Taste:
Syrah is known for dark fruit flavors, high tannin, and leathery flavors. Mourvedre is used
for its musky, earthy notes. Grenache adds alcohol, acid, cherry, and other red fruit notes. In this wine, together these made something really delicious. Blueberry syrup, orange rind, sour cherry, and warm cinnamon spice were all over this wine. Dark flowers and roasted walnuts hung around in the background. The wine had noticeable tannin and a little alcohol burn, but it was all in balance. Even with all that flavor, the wine was medium bodied -- it wasn't huge.

Food Pairings: L
ike I said, this isn't a big daddy wine. Hard cheeses and salty meats like prosciutto are great for this wine. Perhaps it's because of the bullfighting stuff, but I also envision this with Spanish tapas -- mushrooms in olive oil and garlic or patatas bravas (spicy fried potatoes in a special spicy aioli).

Drink or Down the Sink?: Drink. A solid wine for a great value. If you like full-flavored, blockbuster wines, this will be too subtle for you, but I liked it's lightness and complex smells and tastes. It's a good find from a small, historical, and pretty awesome region.

Note: If you can't find a
Costières de Nimes, look for a Côtes-du-Rhône with Syrah as the main grape, or a Côtes-du-Ventoux or Côtes-du-Luberon, which should have some similarly delicious characteristics! Readmore »»