Chai Christine Cannac, Bédarieux

From the Auvergne to the Languedoc - specifically Bédarieux, an attractive town in the Vallée de l'Orb we haven't visited for a while. But we'd heard there was a good natural wine bar and shop there and finally made it up there for lunch today.



Christine Cannac (above) has worked as a sommelier all over the Languedoc but came back to set up a wine bar in her home town a couple of years ago. She'd become more and more drawn to natural wines, she told us. Her wine list is a roll-call of the great and the good including Casot des Mailloles, Marcel Lapierre, Dard et Ribo, Thierry Allemand and Léon Barral in nearby Faugères.



We initially made the mistake of ordering a couple of unknown (to us) wines by the glass - a grenache gris called La Begou from Maxime Magnon and a rather over-funky rosé called Plait-t'il from Le Petite Baigneuse - which I don't think were showing at their best. Possibly they'd just been open too long.





So we switched to a bright, breezy vin de soif called Fou du Roi from Axel Prüfer of Le Temps des Cerises just up the road at Le Mas Blanc which was perfect with our shared platter of charcuterie. According to the Australian importer Living Wines, which rather impressively ships it over to Tasmania, it's a blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan.







We drove up the road to see if Axel was around but the winery was firmly shut up. Shame. He sounds quite a character.





Anyway if you're in the area Chai Christine Cannac is a good place to drop by for a drink. Just order by the bottle. The bar is at 3 square Robert Schumann, 34600 Bédarieux. Tel: 04 67 95 86 14.





Readmore »»

Auberge de Chassignolles: a natural wine hotel

Ever since I visited the natural wine bar Gergovie earlier this year and found out that owner Harry Lester (below) ran a hotel in the Auvergne called the Auberge de Chassignolles during the summer I’ve been dying to go.



And last week we made it and spent 3 indulgent nights there.



It’s just as good as I’d hoped. A tiny village set in glorious unspoilt countryside about 950m above sea level, surrounded by dense forests and rolling green pastures it’s as good a get-away-from-it-all destination as you can imagine.







Our room overlooked a 12th century Romanesque church





The auberge operates on a dinner, bed and breakfast basis, dinner being a 5 course prix fixe affair that changes every night - fantastic value for 24 euros a head.







Harry also has a serious, largely natural wine list which we made good use of - highlights being the 2008 Domaine Michel Lafarge Raisins Dorées Bourgogne Aligoté, the 2008 Elian da Ros Cotes du Marmandais, Le Vin est une Fête and Antoine Arena Carco 2009 from Patrimonio in Corsica. There are also some great classics such as Domaine Tempier Bandol, Thierry Allemand’s Cornas, Grange des Pères and a 1999 vintage of Domaine de Trévallon.





In fact it was so perfect we’re squeezing in another night on the way home next week ;-)



Note: the hotel closes for the summer at the end of September





Readmore »»

Le Pichenouille, Maury

Another good natural wine bar and shop, this time in Maury, run by negociant Jean Pla - or it was when we went there on Saturday. Apparently he’s handing over to someone else this week.

Unlike the Xadic del Mar Le Pichenouille is more of a restaurant with two long shared tables, one inside and one outside. The menu is simpe with a choice of 2 dishes - 15€ for two courses 19.50€ for three.



The food is simple but well cooked and based on good ingredients - I had a tartine of goats cheese, my husband serrano ham and pan con tomate then we both had slow braised pig’s cheek which went well with a dark brambly Clos d’Origine Les Quilles Libres (l’equilibre - geddit?), a local, organic blend of grenache, syrah and carignan we picked off the shelves for 20€. (They list wine at the same price they sell it in the shop.)


Despite the fact they decanted it it had some pretty tough tannins though was fine with the pork - and better still when we drank it, lightly chilled, the following day.

33, ave Jean Jaurès, 66460 Maury.
Tel: 04 68 59 02 18
www.restocave.com

Incidentally it was thanks to this guide by Michel Tuz and Alice Feiring which lists both natural wine producers and wine bars that we found the Xadic del Mar and the Pichenouille. Well worth getting if you're travelling around France. Readmore »»

El Xadic del Mar: a gem of a natural wine bar

On the face of it the back streets of the small town of Banyuls-sur-Mer seems an unlikely location for a natural wine bar but given that Roussillon has more than its fair share of natural winemakers, one of the most renowned of which, Casot des Mailloles, is just up the road, it’s not so surprising.

El Xadic del Mar was opened a year ago by Emmanuel aka ‘Manu’ Desclaux who used to run Le Verre Volé in Paris and has an exemplary selection of local wines and natural wines from further afield.

We stopped by for lunch before our visit to Casot des Mailloles (of which more later) and had a couple of interesting whites - Domaine Yoyo’s Restaké 2010 and Bruno Duchêne’s Val Pompo, both Grenache Gris . . .


. . . and some inventive plates of tapas including calcots and anchovies (of course, in this part of the world) and marinated mackerel with asparagus.


Desclaux’ view is that the Parisien wine bar scene has lost touch with its roots - that places that started as bars have become fully fledged restaurants. Well this is thoroughly unpretentious and a great place to drink natural wine.

El Xadic del Mar is at 11, av. du Puig-del-Mas, Banyuls Sur Mer (66650)
TÉL : + 33 4 68 88 89 20

Readmore »»