Darioush: A Phenomenal Winery in an Unusual Setting

When I was little I had a favorite book called "The Big Orange Splot," which I'm sure few if any people have heard of (apart from my mom, sister, and M.C. Ice to whom I introduced the book shortly after I was sure he was in for the long haul : ). It's an illustrated book about a dude named Mr. Plumbean who lives in a very uniform subdivision. One day a seagull drops a can of orange paint on his roof (don't look for logic, it's a kid's book). His neighbors lament his bad luck and ask him to fix it, but instead he paints the rest of his house in psychadelic colors and creates a hippie oasis replete with frangipani trees and a pet alligator. The neighbors go over, one by one, to talk sense into him and wind up transforming their attitudes and then their homes into the homes of their dreams until everyone has a crazy ass house that represents them.

In my mind, this is kind of the story of Darioush Khaledi (minus the splot).

The first time I drove past Darioush I was completely confused. MC Ice and I were getting our bearings around Napa and wound up driving south down the Silverado Trail (the high rent section of Napa) when we saw an Egyptian castle-like building on our left. It was so over the top and out of place compared to the rest of the Napa establishments that we HAD to check it out.

Knowing nothing about the place, I assumed this was someone's folly and that the wines would be campy and gimmicky, which is how I perceived the building.

Realizing for the four millionth time that you can't judge a book by its cover, when I tasted the wines and they were outstanding, I was blown away. I'm a huge fan of Darioush and after my visit to the Winery and the wonderful hospitality we were shown, I'm an even bigger advocate.

Although Darioush Khaledi has the same story as every other dude in Napa (rich man loves wine, buys winery) his is full of many more interesting twists, as Gregory, our guide through the Darioush line and an all-around good guy shared with us.

Darioush was born in Iran and his dad made wine as a hobby. Being a curious kid, he snuck barrel samples and tasted wines from a young age. So began his Bacchanalian obsession.

After the s*%t hit the fan in Iran, he immigrated to L.A. in the late 1970s, where he had to start from scratch. He and his brother opened a value grocery store, and success bred success. Today he owns a chain of value grocery stores and his earnings allowed him to buy and build out the winery of his dreams, which pays homage and is a stunning monument to his heritage.

So it's not exactly a "Big Orange Splot," but Darioush and Mr. Plumbean both bucked convention and allowed their dreams to become reality in such an individual way, that I see a great parallel. Hearing Darioush's story makes me understand the motivation behind the building and I admire it so much more now that I get it.

But even without that background, I can tell you that if you walked into this winery you'd see a big difference between this place and others in Napa. It's not just the layout or the "theme," it's the warm welcome. This place isn't just a winery, it's a place to hang out for a while and enjoy yourself. They've got bar stools and seating areas, amazing Persian-roasted pistachios (we bought three bags to bring home!!!), and nice, knowledgeable people who want you to have fun and feel comfortable. This place makes you feel special (what a relief after being locked in the dungeon of the yuck winery before!).

We tried 6 wines and each was exceptional -- both the reds and the whites. Gregory, our guide, told us that Darioush has a true admiration for French wines and that his personal cellar is made up of a lot of wines from France. You can easily see the French influence in the wines' layers of flavor and complexity.

Without further ado...the Lineup:

_______________________________________________________________

Wine 1: 2007 Russian River Chardonnay

Price: $39

Color: This wine was slightly deceptive in color -- this is why I always say that color is our least reliable sense when evaluating wine. It was a light straw with a little green to it. Usually this color means the wine hasn't seen oak (or just used oak, since new oak darkens a wine's color) and the green generally indicates youth and high acidity...again book and cover don't match.

Smell: Green apples and classic notes of pineapple, tropical fruit, and vanilla were all over this wine. There was a lemonade note -- lemony but slightly sweet -- that was very unique and pleasing too. The smell reminded me of pina colada with a kick of lemon in it.

Taste: A classic Russian River Valley Chardonnay with a twist! The wine tasted like a Sonoma Chardonnay -- tropical fruit, pina colada, vanilla, caramel, smoke, oak and apple -- all what you'd expect. To balance this though, there was very high acid and a mineral/crushed rock/gravel-like component to the wine that gave it an interesting twist. Although I'm not willing to go as far as to say that it was French in style (because it did have so much ripe fruit), I do think it's a variation for those who like oak but want acid and minerals too.

Drink or Down the Sink? Drink. I don't like a lot of oak on my Chardonnay and I'm generally put off when I can detect it strongly but this wine is so well made and has great balance that even I enjoyed my taste of it. It had a enough interest from the acid and mineral components that I've got to respect it. If you like oak on your Chardonnay, but in moderation, you will go nuts for this wine. It's a stellar example of the mindmeld between great fruit and great winemaking.

_______________________________________________________________

Wine 2: 2009 Signature Viognier
Viognier, the aromatic white grape native to the Northern Rhone Valley, has really taken off in California. The only thing -- you usually see it from the Central Coast, not from Napa. I'd heard this wine was outstanding and was anxious to see if it lived up to the hype.

Price: $39

Color: The wine was a golden color and was reflective and really viscous (it stuck to the sides of the glass).

Smell: As all Viognier should be, this wine was like smelling a bowl of ripe fruit. Honeydew, tangerine, peach, and apricot created a heady mix. 15% of the wine spent some time in oak barrels, and I could detect a little sugar cookie smell (vanilla, baked sugar, and a biscuity note) from that. It smelled delicious.

Taste: I was so happy to taste what I just love in Viognier -- a huge hit of honeysuckle with ripe peaches. There was a tangerine twang too and a small touch of acidity, which is often lost in California versions of this classically low acid grape. It was mouthcoating, rich, and regal.

Drink or Down the Sink? Drink. I love that Darioush is making this wine. It's a bold move for a Napa producer but they've found the right vineyard in the Oak Knoll district and their careful handling of the fruit allows the true nature of Viognier to show itself. A highlight of the tasting for sure.
_______________________________________________________________

Wine 3: 2006 Signature Merlot

Price: $46

Color: SEXY!!! The wine was so pretty. A consistent, saturated crimson color that didn't stain the glass and didn't have gloppy legs (meaning the alcohol wasn't too high and the grapes didn't sit on the skins for too long).

Smell: Richness and complexity overlaying bold ripe fruit! Black cherry and a bouquet of dark flowers with layered undertones of smoke and rich coca powder (not the sweetened kind). What a classy smell! It was a privilege to take a whiff.

Taste: Blackberry, blueberry, and black cherry -- like a fruit pie. Similar to the smell, there were undertones of tobacco and wet, dark soil that were so awesomely different and refined. The tannins (things that dry out your mouth) can only be described as chewy -- you found yourself kind of wanting to bite on them after they left your mouth. It sounds weird, but if you've had a wine with this kind of tannin, you'll know what I'm getting at.

Drink or Down the Sink? Drink. This is my favorite of the entire line. I LOVE this Merlot. I wish every Merlot hater could grab a bottle of this and taste it blind. I'm SURE it would convert them. This is not an overcropped, watery, overly soft, pansy Merlot. This wine pays great respect to the Bordeaux native (the Merlot grape) and shows what Merlot can be when it's treated well, grown on hillsides (this is from the hills of Mount Veeder, a very prestigious area), and handled carefully in a winery. With 5% Cabernet Franc blended in for earthiness, this is a stunner. Go Merlot!
_______________________________________________________________

Wine 4: 2007 Signature Cabernet Franc

It's interesting to see a pure Cab Franc. Most winemakers use it for blending because it adds great earth and herbal notes to a blend. Although some examples can be phenomenal (Cheval Blanc is the most famous mostly Cabernet Franc wine from Bordeaux), some taste like a green pepper and are less outstanding. Important trivia fact -- Cabernet Sauvignon is the love child of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, so don't be surprised if you see similarities to either of these grapes.

Price: $58

Color: Lighter than the Merlot, this wine was like bright bing cherry juice. It seemed like it wasn't going to have a lot going on.

Smell: I should just stop looking at the wine! There was A LOT going on in the nose. There was the typical green pepper note (to which I'm very sensitive so I always notice first) and then a hit of wet garden soil. Black tea leaves (like a regular tea bag), and a nougat aroma (like the inside of a 3 Muskateers bar) jumped out of the glass. There was a hit of nutmeg too. This was a very interesting wine.

Taste: Of course I noticed the green pepper first but it didn't ruin the wine. Blackberry fruit was overlain by that same tea leaf, earthy, nougat taste that I had smelled. The wine had a long finish and it tasted like fruit and almonds -- almost like a marzipan. It was intense and so interesting.

Drink or Down the Sink? Drink. I love that the winemaker reversed the Merlot blend for this -- it's 95% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot. If you've never had Cabernet Franc before, this is a classic example. If you don't like this, I think you may not be a fan of Cabernet Franc. This is a real pinnacle for a grape that isn't often made as a standalone (because most can't do it right). A terrific wine.

_______________________________________________________________

Wine 5: 2007 Signature Shiraz

Price: $68

Color: This was so dark it was almost purple in color and pretty damn near opaque. Because I had been so grossly off in prejudging based on color, at this point I gave up hope that this would be a flavor-rich wine, as it should have been with that kind of look to it...

Smell: But just when I thought I shouldn't bother looking at wine anymore, SUCCESS!!! This was a big daddy wine. Leather, smoke, and the smell of a horse stable (typical for Shiraz) were calling my name. There was a floral/perfume smell and then the essence of super-ripe black plums and blackberries. Almond, cocoa powder, and dark chocolate were somewhere in the mix too. I wanted to EAT this wine from the smell of it.

Taste: Just like it smelled except with some new layers of thyme and herb. The problem for me -- it had flavor, but the texture wasn't as rich as I'd hope so the flavor was kind of fleeting. I didn't get to savor it in a long finish or chew on the tannins as I did with the out-of-this-world Merlot.

Drink or Down the Sink? Drink. It's a great wine, although this was the least complex of the group for me and probably my least favorite. Although the wine is well-made, I wished it had a bit more staying power. Maybe it's just a phase in the wine's development and it may get better with time. Either that or it's not my style. Still, I wouldn't skip it if someone offers it to you.

_______________________________________________________________

Wine 6: 2005 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon

Funny story about this wine. My dad went to Napa a few months ago. He went with a friend and didn't consult me on the visit (bad move, as he attested). When he came back, he called me. "I went to a place called Darioush. So, how do I get a Cab like that for less than $80?" Sorry dad, even with my experience and all the stuff I taste, I can attest that it doesn't exist. This is Darioush's largest production item (8,000+ cases) but it's still handcrafted and beyond fabulous. A cheaper wine won't give you the kind of quality that's in this bottle.

Price: $80

Color: The wine was like a ruby gemstone and it had thick, lazy tears that took their sweet time running down the glass. High alcohol, high pigment, and I assumed, HUGE flavor.

Smell: Ohhh yeah. Although it shares some subtle components with its Bordeaux brethern, this isn't a wine from anywhere except Napa Valley. And it's amazing. The wine was bursting with black cherry. The smells from the oak were so awesome -- cedar, pencil lead, and tobacco were easily identifiable and mouthwatering.

Taste: What a complex wine! Black cherry and juicy black plum flavors were so vivid that it was like biting into the fruit. The oak flavors of tobacco, vanilla, and almond complemented the fruit and everything combined with tempered tannins that held the flavor after I swallowed the wine.

Drink or Down the Sink? Drink. This is absolutely divine wine. A great Cabernet that is subtle yet bold. It's steep in price (normal for Napa though) but for California Cab lovers especially, this is a must try. I think it's a beautiful wine that is truly Napa, but has some of the subtlety of the French wines Khaledi loves so much.

So that was the end of my tour of Napa. It's on to Sonoma next. Before I depart, I need to extend gratitude to the readers who told me to include Darioush on the itinerary (thanks for voting on Facebook and Twitter especially) and to Alessandra and Gregory at Darioush, who made our visit so outstanding. A million thanks and I can't wait to come back!!!